A Timeline for Starting Seeds Indoors by Michael Morris
When it comes to starting seeds indoors in the spring, knowing when to start is one of the most important elements. Begin by understanding the hardiness zone you garden in. Sometimes called growing zones, USDA zone hardiness maps are based on winter temperature averages over a thirty-year period. The intent is to help gardeners make informed decisions regarding which plants will perform well in their geographical area. While primarily aimed at trees, shrubs, perennials, knowing your hardiness zone is useful for your vegetable garden as well. The 5 zones represented in Colorado are 3, 4, 5, 6, 7. The mountains are predominantly Zone 4, the fruit growing area near Grand Junction is 6-7and the Front Range predominantly Zone 4-5. Longmont Plant Hardiness Zone is 5b and Estes Park is Zone 5a.
In Longmont, a normal growing season is 146 days (about 5 months). This number assumes that season extenders such as frost cloths, cloches or cold frames are not used. As a rule, May 15 (May 30 if you garden at altitude) is the start of our frost-free growing season. That said, you should always be prepared to deal with the unpredictable spring weather _some years we have been able to plant as early as Mothers’ Day, other seasons its after Memorial Day. October 1st is the average first Fall frost.
Using May 15 and the information on the back of the seed packets you’ve selected will determine the day you’ll want to start your seeds indoors. Example: Peppers and tomatoes should be started eight to ten weeks before last spring frost. If you calculate ten weeks before May 15, seeds for these warm weather crops should be started the week of March 7.
Cool weather crops (lettuce, spinach, kale) and root crops (carrots, radishes, turnips) respond best to direct sowing in the garden. They typically don’t transplant well.
Begin the process by choosing high quality, fresh seeds from local suppliers. Check the back of the seed packet. There should be a 2025 date printed on it. This is your assurance that the seed is fresh. When you open the seed packet you should find seeds that are uniform in size and color. Selecting fresh, premium seeds will give you better germination rates and stronger seedlings, which ultimately leads to a better crop.
Take time to read the seed packet. You’ll fine valuable information regarding planting depth, spacing and days to germination as well as days to maturity, once your transplants are in the ground.
Gardening with a Broadfork by Dudley McBride
Several years ago I was turning the soil in my raised beds with a shovel and thought there had to be an easier way. Plus, Iwanted a tool that supported a no-till approach to soil management. After some research, I purchased a broadfork from Mountain Creature (https://meadowcreature.com). So what is a broadfork and why do some gardeners speak so favorably of its use in their gardens?
A broadfork is like a tall pitchfork EXCEPT it has two long handles – one on each side of a 1-2 ft. metal crossbar from which several long tines extend down towards the ground. When the gardener steps on the broadfork’s crossbar with her full weight while holding the overhead handles, and then steps backwards pulling the handles towards herself and then forward again, the forks loosen the soil, but don’t turn over the soil. Thereby, the layers of soil are left intact yet aerated, inviting air & water. The broadfork seems to have been invented by Andre Grelinin in the 1960’s. It was known as a grenlinette in France and was introduced into the United States in the early 1990’s by Eliot Coleman, author of New Organic Grower and other works. Coleman has quite an extensive farming and advisory backgroundin the field of organic gardening.
Many gardeners like using the broadfork for various reasons. Forone, it’s easier than digging down with a shovel, lifting a load of dirt, and turning it over. Lifting that dirt seems to get heavier & heavier. In addition, when shoveling or even tilling soil, the dormant weeds under the surface are brought up to the top where they can germinate and flourish for another season. With the broadfork, the dormant weed seeds remain underneath. In addition, with a broadfork one can loosen the soil without destroying the soil structure and the living web of bacteria, fungi, and earthworms beneath the soil surface, which are good for healthy garden soil.
Broadforks come in a variety of dimensions and constructions. My broadfork is made of steel which makes it heavier than broadforks with wooden or fiberglass handles. Weight and handle length relation to the user’s size and strength should be taken into consideration when choosing a broadfork.
