2026

JANUARY

Winter in Colorado might seem like a challenging time for gardening, but growing herbs indoors can be a rewarding way to enjoy fresh flavors year-round.  Here’s how-to successfully cultivate your indoor herb garden during the colder month.

Select the Right Herbs: Certain herbs thrive better indoors than others.

Consider growing:

     -Basil: Prefers warm temperatures and plenty of light;

     -Thyme: A hardy herb that adapts well to indoor conditions;

     -Parsley: Tolerates lower light but grows best in moderate sunlight;

     -Chives: Easy to grow and can tolerate some neglect.

Pot size and soil: Choose pots that are at least 4-6 inches deep, ensuring

they have drainage holes to prevent water retention. Use a high-quality potting mix that retains moisture while allowing good drainage.

Light requirements: Light is critical for indoor herbs. Ideally, place your pots in a south-facing window where they will receive 6-8 hours of sunlight daily. If natural light is insufficient, consider using grow lights. Position about 6-12 inches above the plants and provide 12-16 hours of light daily to mimic natural conditions.

Watering: Check the top inch of soil; water only when it feels dry. Make sure your pots have proper drainage to avoid overwatering, which can lead to root rot.

 Temperature and Humidity: Keep your indoor herbs in a consistent tempera-ture range of 65°F to 75°F. Avoid placing them near drafts, heating vents, or cold windows. Indoor air can be dry during the winter, so consider using a humidity tray or small humidifier to maintain humidity levels, especially moisture-loving herbs like basil.

 Pest Control: Regularly inspect your plants. If you find pests, wash the leaves with water or use insecticidal soap.

 Fertilizing Your Herbs: Herbs generally need less fertilizer during the winter months. A liquid fertilizer every 4-6 weeks can promote growth. Avoid over-fertilizing as this can lead to weak or leggy plants.

 Harvesting: One of the joys of growing herbs indoors is the ability to harvest fresh leaves throughout the winter. Regularly snip off leaves to encourage growth but avoid cutting more than one-third of the plant at a time to keep it healthy.

Growing herbs indoors during the winter in Colorado is not only feasible but can also enhance your culinary experiences. By considering their light, watering, and care needs, you can enjoy a flourishing indoor herb garden, even in the coldest months.

FEBRUARY

When to Prune Flowering Shrubs:

Let Bloom Time Be Your Guide

Dormant pruning season is here, and many of us are itching to get out the lop-pers. But when it comes to flowering shrubs, the calendar isn’t the boss — the buds are. Every shrub carries its bloom schedule in its wood, and once you understand where those flower buds are formed, pruning becomes far less mysterious and far more successful.

Some shrubs write their floral future the summer before, tucking next year’s blossoms into last year’s wood. Others wait until spring to start fresh. Knowing which story your shrub is telling is the key to pruning at the right time.

Spring Bloomers: Flower on Old Wood – Prune after they finish blooming

These shrubs set their flower buds in late summer or fall of the previous year. If you prune them in winter, you’re not “shaping” — you’re removing the very buds that would have bloomed this spring.

This includes Lilac, Forsythia, Weigela, Ninebark, Early spirea, Flowering Quince, many Viburnums

Why wait? By pruning right after they bloom, you give the plant the rest of the growing season to produce new shoots and set next year’s flower buds.

Front Range note: Our freeze–thaw cycles and dry winter winds often cause tip dieback. Don’t hesitate to remove winter‑killed wood in early spring, even if it means sacrificing a few blooms. Plant health always wins.

SUMMER & FALL BLOOMERS: FLOWER ON NEW WOOD – PRUNE IN LATE WINTER OR EARLY SPRING

These shrubs bloom on the current season’s growth. A late‑winter pruning actual-ly encourages strong new shoots — and more flowers. This includes Panicle Hydrangea (Hydrangea Paniculata), Smooth Hydrangea (Hydrangea Arborescens), Butterfly Bush, Potentilla, Rose of Sharon, Caryopteris, Russian Sage.

Why prune now? Removing last year’s wood stimulates vigorous new growth, which is exactly where the flowers will appear.

Front Range note: Because our springs can be unpredictable, pruning now helps these shrubs put their energy into fresh, resilient growth that can handle a late cold snap better than older, stressed wood.

A SIMPLE RULE OF THUMB

If it blooms before June, it’s almost always blooming on old wood → prune after flowering. If it blooms after June, it’s usually blooming on new wood → prune late winter to early spring.

Pruning doesn’t have to feel like guesswork. Once you know where your shrub keeps its flower buds, you’re no longer cutting blindly — you’re working with the plant’s natural rhythm. And that’s when pruning becomes less of a chore and more of a conversation with the garden. 

Michael Morris